Fernando de Noronha is a group of paradise islands just off the North East coast of Brazil. Consisting of 20 small islands and one larger one, the archipelago lies 340km from the mainland coast and covers an area of only 17 km2. On land, there are 2100 residents; the crystal clear waters surrounding the islands are equally occupied, with 230 varieties of fish, five types of shark, two species of sea turtles, 15 coral reefs and, unique to here and the South Pacific, the Spinner Dolphin.
Sustainable tourism is the islands biggest source of revenue but the number of people allowed on the islands at any one time is strictly limited (only 420 tourists) to ensure its eco-tourism status – the longer you stay on the islands the higher the permit fee but it is worth staying at least five days if you can. Walking, cycling or hiring a buggy are the best way to get around and to reach the amazing beaches with breathtaking vistas. There are 16 idyllic beaches to choose from including Baia dos Porcos, Praia dos Sancho and Praia do Atalaia, which has a stunning natural swimming pool amongst the rocks where you can pop your head under the water and see the most amazing tropical species of fish, octopus, baby shark etc.

Where to Stay

Accommodation is limited and gets very busy at peak times. There is only one hotel, Dolphin Hotel in the moderately priced category, but there are also very luxurious pousadas (guest houses), some of which also have the best dining on the island. As the island is so small you will not be far from any of its attraction wherever you choose to stay.

Pousada Solar de Loronha, which means ‘the house of noble,’ fuses guest comforts with nature preservation. Stay in air-conditioned bungalows, all of which have views of the sea. Located close to Sueste Beach Pousada Maravilha offers an extraordinary view of the ocean and has an Environmental Administration System in place to defend and preserve its environment. There are five bungalows and three suites (which each sleep four people). They all overlook the sea and have relaxing hammocks on their porches – the bungalows also each come with a Japanese hot tub. Professional, internationally experienced staff will make your trip comfortable and private.

Pousada Solar dos Ventos is situated only 300m away from Baía do Sueste (Sueste Bay) where there are great concentrations of fish, octopus, skates and sea turtles, which can be seen during diving. Considered one of the best pousadas in Brazil, Pousada Ze Maria has humble beginnings but has expanded in an environmentally friendly way with everything being powered by solar energy, and now consists of six standard apartments, nine bungalows and three special bungalows, which sleep up to five people. The architectural eco project of Pousada Teju-Açu, which has 12 apartments, has very little impact on the land (most structures are on platforms above the ground). The construction materials used are mainly from sustainable trees.
See details of luxury and moderate accommodation in Fernando de Noronha.

Where to Eat

As you would expect from an island with so much fishing, the most popular dish on a menu is seafood. It goes without saying that the fish is caught daily. Dishes include sushi and sashimi and grilled and baked fish, but the most famous of all is banana leaf wrapped fish. Deep fried shark meat dumplings are unique to the island and can be found at most restaurants. The national dish of Brazil is Feijoada which is a stew made from black beans and cuts of meat such as pork knuckle, pigs ears and chops as well as pieces of beef. It is served with rice and vegetables with orange slices as a garnish. This is mostly available at local street cafes but not many restaurants and those that do serve it do usually only on Wednesdays and Saturdays.

Restaurante Teju-Açu (Modern / Brazilian). Restaurante Teju-Açu mixes brazilian and international flavours in modern ways. Local ingredients are prepared with imagination and style. The most popular dessert is gateau filled with warm creamy cheese and topped with a light guava syrup. The restaurant and bar are situated by the pool for a great ambience. (Estrada da Alamoa (81) 3619 1277. Daily)

Trattoria di Morena (Modern / International). Established in 1999, Trattoria di Morena has become a gastronomic reference on the island. Chef André Filho presents a selection of creative contemporary cuisine with a variety of ingredients from the region. On Fridays and Saturdays the restaurant has a Happy Hour with live music between 6.30-8.30pm. (Rua Nice Cordeiro, 2600, Floresta Velha (81) 3619-1142. Daily 5pm-11.30pm)

Restaurante do Zé Maria (Regional /Modern). Restaurante do Zé Maria blends the simplicity of local dishes with the sophistication of the best gastronomy in the major cities of Brazil. The ambience is created by a mix of rustic and hand crafted furniture within decoration that is inspired by the culture of Northeast Brazil. On Wednesdays and Saturdays from 8pm the Banquet style Festival Gastranomic is accompanied by life music. (Rua Nice Cordeiro, 01, Floresta Velha (81) 3619-1258. Daily 12noon-11.30pm. Festival Gastronomic approx. R$110 per person + 10% service).

See all Restauraunt recommendations

Where to Drink

Kiosks and bars can be found near the port for a chilled beer or a Caipirinha. Some places have space to have a dance as well. Local hero, singer and composer Ju Medeiros can often be seen and heard in bars and restaurants around the island.

What to See

Unsurprisingly most activities here take place in or around the water, whether snorkelling, diving, surfing, kayaking, fishing or sailing. For snorkelling, head down to Praia da Atalaia where the number of people permitted to snorkel each day is limited to 100. A tidal pool no deeper than 24 inches contains a remarkable diversity of animals – including lobsters, octopuses and the possibility of a baby shark or two. The diving is brilliant too, with visibility reaching 50 meters (165 feet), and the average water temperature around 26 degrees centigrade (79 Fahrenheit). Coral reefs, sea turtles, sharks, spinner dolphins, barracudas, and shipwrecks are some of the attractions. Those who are feeling adventurous should try their hand at Plana Sub or tow diving. It uses the same equipment used in free diving; just a mask, snorkel and fins. Holding a small board and towed by a motorboat you can experience the sensation of flying and manoeuvre the board to turn, go up and down. Hold your breath as long as you can.

Back on dry land, go horse riding along the beach, trekking, or rent a buggy or mountain bike to explore. Head for Dolphin Bay (Baia do Golfinhos) to see dolphins all year round and Turtle Bay (Baía do Sueste) or Leão Beach for the turtles (egg laying and hatching happens between December and May). During September and October, whales can sometimes be spotted as well.

Beaches get busy here, but there are plenty of them around the island, so it is just a question of choosing the ones you want to visit. Sancho Bay and Pig Bay vie for the title of best beach but there is a bus that trundles from one end of the island to the other along its only road ($R2.85) and you can hop on and off as you please. Finally, sunsets are spectacular wherever you are, but the best vantage point is Mirante Dois Irmãos. These activities can be booked as part of trips and tours on the island. See here for details.

How to Get There

The nearest international airports in Brazil are Recife and Natal. There are daily flights from both.

When to go

Temperatures remain pleasant all year round but there’s a higher chance of rain between February and July. Dolphins can be spotted year-round. Turtles lay eggs in December and these will hatch around May the following year. Whales can be spotted in September/October. Sea temperatures are warm all year.
By: Paul Barnett

CITY

• “All regions of Morocco are represented in Casa. You can find people from the farthest reaches of the Sahara, from the Mediterranean coast, and from the High Atlas mountains. And where you find them, you find their cuisine and their customs. At the same time, there’s an intoxicating oddness about the city, fragments of life that many Casablancans hardly know exist.” Tahir Shah explains why he loves Casablanca in Of all the medinas … insider’s guide to Casablanca.
• “While the Danish cuisine reflected in the capital’s restaurants 20 years ago could be labelled traditional at best and bland at worst, the ugly duckling has turned into a beautiful meaty swan.” Lars Eriksen shares his Top 10 guide to eating in Copenhagen.
• “The future of El Cabanyal looks uncertain, but while it’s still standing, visitors have a last chance to explore this unpolished gem on the Mediterranean before it is destroyed for ever.” Jason Webster enourages us to Head for Valencia fishermen’s quarter – before the bulldozers get there …
• In Now, Cultural Casablanca, The New York Times’ Marisa Mazria-Katz writes about the unique and chaotic contemporary arts scene flourishing in Casablanca.

ESCAPE

• Anthony Peregrine of The Times learns to relax on an Ultimate chill-out on a posh barge in France – “I asked for a beer and settled back to the canal’s true pace — one that the rest of the world lost to steam trains, and I’d not experienced since my days in a pram.”
• The Guardian’s Liz Boulter learns how to look Ten years younger in Turkey – “No Botox or face-lifts. No salon facials or £90-a-jar creams. All I need to do to look better and younger is spend 10 minutes every morning and evening doing the Les Dawson jaw thrust and the airy-fairy face tap…”
• Anthony Sattin tells of his Adventures in Aswan. “Crossing back over the Nile from the ruins of Yebu to the centre of Aswan, from a world of rising rivers and animal gods to the rush of traffic and the call to prayer, requires another sort of transformation.”
• The Independent’s Susan Griffith spends 48 Hours In: Victoria, the capital of British Columbia, for a month full of colourful festivals and parades.
• Claire Wrathall discovers The striking mix of cultures of St Lucia – “Christopher Columbus may have claimed St Lucia for Spain when he happened on it in 1502 but the Spanish never settled here. And it’s not as if there’s a shortage of existing cultural influences to find inspiration in: Amerindian, African, French, British and even Indian…”
• Maura J. Casey highlights “a handful of hotels that not only offer proximity to old ruins or historical excavations but also own them.” Here are her pick of Splendid Ruins: Hotels Built on History in The New York Times.

OUTDOOR/ADVENTURE

• In The Telegraph Gabriella Le Breton tries her hand at archery, gourmet game cooking and orienteering in the wilds Vermont. “”This place is great,” says Nancy Crane, here with her mother and sister. “I now know how to render my soon-to-be ex-husband unconscious, chop him up with a chainsaw and kayak out to the middle of a lake to dump his remains.” This is New England: Girls go wild in Vermont
• In The FT Benedict Mander discovers Orinoco Delta’s wildlife and water people: “There were sightings of river dolphins and capuchin monkeys. And the range of birdlife was stunning – swarms of scarlet ibises, squawking guacharacas, toucans peering down from stately ceiba trees, kingfishers flitting across waterways and guacamayas floating grandly by overhead.”

FAMILY

• Mishal Husain enjoys a trip down memory lane as she makes a A return to the Emirates, journeying back to her childhood holiday spots with her own children in tow.
• “Is it possible to walk in the Rockies without providing grizzlies with child-size snacks?” The Guardian’s Kevin Rushby writes about taking his family for a hike in Bear with me: trekking in the Canadian Rockies.

The house, which is called La Posada del Mar, faces the Caribbean so you can hear the crashing of the waves, but as soon as you cross the threshold you enter another world. The dining table sits above a turquoise tiled pond where water used to run down the walls and through fountains. Blanca, Raul’s late wife, had a passion for plants, a talent that runs in the family and the house is built around a jungle of green. Palms and other tropical trees that have been nurtured over the decades, tower above the terracotta sloping roof in the centre of the house.

The room I chose to stay in, granddaughter Marisol’s favourite, is virtually in the trees, and has a brilliant view from the hammock that’s slung on the terrace. In the personal coffee index that I am compiling from my travels, the coffee that Petrona, the housekeeper, makes in the old fashioned Colombian style, is worth the trip halfway across the world. Which is saying something – Cartagena is not the easiest place to access from London.

In the late 60s Marlon Brando, who was making ‘Queimada,’ the first international Hollywood movie shot in Cartagena, refused to stay anywhere else in the city although the house wasn’t for rent. He refused to make the movie unless he could stay in the house so finally the family agreed to move out for a year. He invited them for dinner on a number of occasions and spoke flawless Spanish. He also brought his own monkeys and kept them in the closets and when the family moved back the deeply unpleasant smell in the wood remained for a very long time. Brando used to walk around naked (to the delight of the staff no doubt), drink vast quantities of vodka while playing the bongo drums, party hard, and fly back to Los Angeles for his weekly psychiatric sessions.

In those days the house was not surrounded by high rises; now modernisation has hit Colombia like everywhere else. The big, extraordinary Colonial mansions that sprawled for blocks in the Manga (which means mango) district were still privately owned, but have been slowly sold off as the upkeep became horrendously expensive. Most are gone. Olga, Raul and Blanca’s daughter, is also looking for a buyer and in the meantime renting rooms to those lucky enough to find out about it.

Many years ago the land was sold to the family by an Italian gem dealer who had made a fortune. He lived on the plot next door and befriended Raul. He told Raul that he wanted to make him a rich man and was selling off the land so that he could go back to Italy to die. Raul bought the plot, engaged the architect Manuel Delgado to build the complex, which has many different levels and houses on the site in traditional Colombian style.The second floor, where the hammock hangs, was built for Olga’s sister Gloria when she married her doctor husband. The house in Cartagena is well off the beaten track but within a few minutes of the old city by cab; there you can find beautiful boutique hotels and it is also where Marquez has his house when he stays here. The house of Dona Blanca is a national treasure and should have a preservation order but as yet its future is uncertain.

La Posada del Mar
Bocagrande av del Malecon no. 9-112
tel: +57 5 6641197/6652753
http:/laposadadelmarcartagena.spaces.live.com
Email: arconanticuario@hotmail.com
Rooms start from US$60.00

Strange, beautiful, rustic…are all words that have been used to describe Trancoso, a tiny seaside town on Brazil’s Discovery Coast. Founded by Jesuits in the 16th century, it embraced hippiedom in the 70s and until recently this historic village was as primitive as it gets; electricity only arrived in 1982 and for a long time, locals bartered rather than pay by cash. The pace of life is slow, revolving between the stunning beach and Quadrado, which is the grassy square at the heart of the village and it’s become a retreat for wealthy Paulistas (and the likes of Naomi Campbell and Gisele) who revel in the simplicity of the place.

Where to stay:

Jacaré do Brasil is set in a quiet corner of the Quadrado and offers the most stunning views to the beach, which is a five minute walk away. In the evening you leave the confines of the hotel’s garden and you are right there, amid the buzz. There are five houses to choose from; we think one and two are the best. The owners, an interesting couple from Sao Paulo really go the extra mile to look after guests. +55 73 3668 1470; www.jacaredobrasil.com/br

Villas of Trancoso is set right on the beach, with five one and two bed villas all within a golf course. The real difference between staying here and at Jacaré do Brasil (above) is that Villas of Trancoso is a few kilometres away from the Quadrado. This means that it’s a real retreat, but you will need to rent a car or rely on taxis in the evening if you want to go to the bars, restaurants at the Quadrado. +55 73 3668 1151; www.villasdetrancoso.com

Uxua has nine beautifully decorated converted local houses on the edge of the Quadrado (the three best face the square). The owner is the creative director of the Diesel brand and no expense has been spared putting the hotel together. They have a very nice little beach bar too Take breakfast on your veranda or by the pool, flop into a hammock, and play out your biribando fantasy. The only drawback is the prices. +55 73 3668 2277; http://uxua.com/

Etnia means ‘ethnicity’ and the rooms in this eight-villa resort reflect this. The owner Andre, looks after guests very well and excellent breakfasts are served by the pool. The downside of this hotel is that rooms can be a little noisy as walls are thin and the location isn’t as good as some of the other hotel options. +55 73 3668 1137; etniabrasil.com.br

What to see:

The Quadrado, a grassy square, is at the heart of the action, such as it is. The Igreja de São João Batista, the second-oldest church in Brazil, stands at one end of the square in front of a 1,200-foot cliff and a vista of miles of beach. There are sixty brightly painted mud and clay squat houses which frame the square. Traditionally, none of the houses had numbers; locals could identify them by colour alone. Now, many have been converted into artisans’ workshops, boutiques, and restaurants whose tables spill out onto the green. Have a leisurely lunch and watch the odd horse stroll by as impromptu barefoot soccer games are played out in front of you. In the afternoon, most visitors head for the beach, leaving the square deserted except for the hippie handmade jewellery sellers and a lone coconut vendor, who sets up by the church.

If you do fancy a day trip out of town, Espelho is one of Bahia’s loveliest beaches. Beware though, the roads you take to get there leave a lot to be desired. But when you do finally reach your destination, you’ll have the whole beach virtually to yourself. Reserve one of the two tables at Sylvinha’s Restaurante (Praia do Espelho; +55 73 9985 4157) – eating here will make the journey absolutely worthwhile.

Where to Eat

Bar da Costa, part of Pousada Estrels d’Agua, serves delicious lunches overlooking the beach. Try the fresh ceviche and grilled octopus. Pousada Estrela d’Água, Estrada do Arraial; +55 73 3668 1030.

Capim Santo is a traditional restaurant, with a vine draped courtyard, which has been on the Quadrado for over 20 years (there is also a sister restaurant in Sao Paulo). Go for fish dishes like salmon in leek sauce with black rice. On the Quadrado; +55 73 3668 1122; www.capimsanto.com.br

El Gordo is another boutique hotel with a noteworthy restaurant that serves good food with panoramic cliff top views. The bar also serves over 50 varieties of cachaça. On the Quadrado; + 55 73 3668 1193.

Where to Shop

Trancoso is glamour resistant and the dress code is ultra casual (no-one wears heels on the Quadrado). Cerâmica Calazans – João Calazans, a.k.a. Calá, shows his ceramics at his studio on the Quadrado + 55 73 3668 1112; www.ceramicatrancoso.com.br.

Etnia Boutique at Pousada Etnia sells colourful swimwear and dresses as well as accessories On the Quadrado; + 55 73 3668 1669; www.etniabrasil.com.br

For woodwork and furniture, visit Marcenaria Trancoso. They will arrange shipping. On the Quadrado; + 55 73 3668 1023; www.marcenariatrancoso.com.br.

Finally, Havaianas can be bought everywhere but for the cheapest in town, visit Supermercado Nogueira, in Trancoso’s dusty commercial ghetto on the edge of town and pick them up for a quarter of the price of those found on the Quadrado.

When to Go

March and April (Brazil’s autumn) are the best time to visit for warm temperatures and peace and quiet. If you want to experience Trancoso with crowds, come in late December or early January when São Paulo society descends on the Quadrado. During this time, there are queues for restaurants and few parking spaces.

Getting There

Fly to São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, or Salvador, then on to Porto Seguro. Be advised: Trancoso has few functioning ATM’s, so bring all the cash you’ll need or withdraw it at the airport on your way in. It’s an hour’s drive from Porto Seguro airport to Trancoso.

Atun Poza Lake – Rio Pacaya

08:00 am. Atun Poza expedition
Atun Poza by skiff: This morning we will cruise in our skiffs along a lake called Atun Poza, where we will surprise several species of egrets, herons, hawks, long-legged neotropical cormorants fishing for their dinner, and unusual and loud horned screamers. We will also have a chance to explore other black water lagoons linked to this huge lake, were wattled jacanas compete with a wide variety of spiders, grasshoppers, dragonflies, butterflies, moths, beetles, etc. living along the grassy edges and lily pads of freshwater swamps and marshes. We will have an excellent opportunity of seeing social spiders and how their webs embrace huge parts of a tree.

11:00 am. Back to the vessel
We will continue up the Puinahua River towards the Pacaya River, our destination at the very heart of the Pacaya Samiria Reserve, for further exploration of the largest wetland reserve in the world.

12:30 pm. Lunch
More delicious combinations are in store for you today. Our chef has selected the best ingredients, preparing a unique meal, so just relax and enjoy and let yourself be pampered by our staff.

04:00 pm. Pacaya River expedition
We have reached our main goal, the Pacaya River, at the very heart of the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve, Peru’s largest protected area with a mean annual rainfall of nearly 3,000mm, by far the largest protected wetland reserve in the world. Filled with lakes, palm swamps and streams, the reserve becomes a flooded forest in the rainy season and is one of the most beautiful places you’ll ever visit. At sunset, you’ll be will be astonished by the beautiful colours of the sky and the reflection of the jungle in the black water of the Pacaya River, which is why it has been called the forest of reflections: it’s hard to know where the jungle begins and the water ends. Once it is dark, you’ll hear the second installment of the jungle symphony. Armed with powerful spot lights, we’ll start our night safari in search of night herons, pauraques, spectacled owls, up to a dozen species of croaking from the river’s edge, and fish bats flying over the water scooping up fish. Spectacled and black caimans are found in these pristine waters, and our guides will point them out to you. Stargazing at this time is unique while fireflies light up the jungle around us.

08:00 pm. Back to the boat
We will spend the night in front of a ranger station on the Puinahua River.

Day 9: Saturday

Caro Curahuayte Lagoon – Jungle Hike

08:00 am. Fishing at Caro Curahuayte Lake or Exploring the shores of emergent Islands

Fishing at Caro Curahuayte
On board our excursion skiffs, we will head for a beautiful lake to a spectacular spot, where we expect to catch some fish, mainly piranhas. During the rainy season, the forest is flooded and many trees flower and bear fruit in conjunction with the flooding. Many fish, including piranhas, swim among the flooded tree trunks devouring the fruit or chewing at their skins. Obviously, the piranhas’ reputation as super-carnivores is an exaggeration! There are 25 different species of piranha in the Amazon basin, including black, white and red bellied.

11:30 am. Back to the Boat
We will start navigating back down the Puinahua River towards Iquitos.

03:30 pm. Visit the Yanallpa Community
This afternoon you will have the opportunity to visit this riverside community, this will be your first interaction with local villagers and to meet their unique way of life. This is time to bring along any presents you have and will like to give out to the people and children’s, (papers, books, pencils, colors, T-shirts) they will really appreciate them and will be very pleased. You will learn about all fruit trees and how they harvest them.

05:30 pm. Back to the vessel
We will continue down the Puinahua River towards the Ucayali River.

08:00 pm. Farewell Dinner
Leaving behind the wildlife, you will continue enjoying our service, as a world class traveler deserves. Tonight our chef and kitchen staff will treat you to a grilled dinner, including fresh salads, grilled vegetables, magical sauces, and wonderful combinations of different types of meat. Our talented staff will delight you with some live music before you retire.

Day 10: Sunday

Amazon River – Yarapa River – Puerto Miguel Community

08:00 am. Yarapa River Exploration and Puerto Miguel Village Visit
On board our skiffs we will stop at the village of Puerto Miguel to meet local villagers. You will have the chance to learn about their culture, traditions and folklore. You may also visit one of the villager’s homes, to see how they live and the simplicity of their lifestyle and purchase some of the handcrafts they make.

10:30 am. Back to the vessel
We will continue sailing down the Amazon River.
This is also the time to gather all of your things, pack your bags and check out before a final lunch.

13:30 pm. Disembark at Nauta
We will disembark at our port in Nauta, where a bus will be waiting to take you back to Iquitos.

05:30 pm. Flight departs for Lima
All activities are subject to change due to weather conditions and time of year. River and tributaries level may vary and thus navigation times and excursions may need to be modified at the captain´s discretion.

Arrival Transfer
Upon the arrival of your domestic flight, you will be met by Aracari’s representative, who will be holding a sign with your name. He will escort you to your hotel and assist you at check-in.

Overnight at Country Club Lima Hotel

This 76 room hotel is located in the residential and commercial district of San Isidro, right in front of the Lima Golf Club – guests can play at the Golf Club for a modest green fee. Please request to play in advance. The hotel is housed in an elegant old mansion that was the most exclusive club and hotel of the Lima elite in the 30´s. It has a pool, spa, beauty parlor, two bars and a restaurant. http://www.aracari.com/hotels/country-club-lima-hotel-lima-lima-area.html

Day 11: Monday

Departure Transfer
Aracari representative, will pick you up from your hotel and escort you to the airport for your international flight. He will inform you of the necessary check-out and departure procedures, and accompany you until you are comfortable and ready for your flight.

For more information visit http://www.aracari.com/

See days 1 – 3 of the Peru Itinerary

See days 4 – 7 of the Peru Itinerary

Arequipa to Colca Journey

You will depart from Arequipa and drive northbound obtaining stunning views of the volcanoes that surround the City along the way. The total drive to the Colca takes 3-4 hours non-stop or 5-6 hours with sightseeing stops en route. The landscape and vegetation will change as you gradually gain altitude. Above 3,800m/12,467ft you enter the ecosystem generally known as the Puna highlands. The Puna is the home of condor and the vicuna.

Soon after your departure you will enter the “Salinas and Aguada Blanca National Reserve”, one of Peru’s two protected areas devoted to preserving the vicuna, the wild and rare Andean camelid of precious fur. Here, herds of these lovely animals are easy to see. The next attractions are the Sumbay Caves, whose impressive pre-historic petroglyphs and cave paintings are worth the short detour from the main route. Patapampa (4914 m/16,122ft) is the highest point in this route. Your gradual descent starts and you will come across the unique Toccra lagoons, where a variety Andean birdlife abounds. You will soon turn west and descend into the Colca Valley and first encounter its astounding landscapes. You will reach Chivay and head along the southern banks of the Colca river until you reach the village of Yanque. This tiny village has one of the most imposing Churches in the Valley.

You will have an English speaking guide and driver for the duration of your stay.

Overnight at Las Casitas del Colca
This wonderful Orient Express lodge consists of 20 detached and spacious cottages or “casitas” offering the highest standard of comfort. Each double or twin cottage has central and floor heating, fireplace, outdoor hot tub and indoor bathtub, indoor and outdoor shower. Highly recommended Spa with outdoor heated pool offering a wide range of massage therapies and beauty treatments. Activities such as horse riding, walks, fishing in the lodge’s pond, visiting the eco vegetable garden and feeding baby alpacas are included as well as all meals.
http://www.aracari.com/hotels/las-casitas-del-colca-colca-valley-arequipa-area.html

Day 5: Tuesday

Early in the morning you will drive down the valley toward the Condor Cross, the best lookout point for Condors, about an hour and a half from your lodge. As you drive along the Valley narrows and forms the impressive Canyon. The lookout point for condors stands a 1000m/ 3281ft above the river, and 2,400m/7874ft below the top of the cliff faces. Although the condor is present throughout the Andes, there are only a few places, like the Colca, where it is regularly observed, and fewer still where it can be seen from above to appreciate the white plumage of its wings and flanks.

At the Condor Cross you will probably see several soaring below you with the first thermals of the morning. Once the thermals have taken the condors past you and out of sight you will continue down the road to the village of Cabanoconde. The inhabitants of the Colca Valley come from two ethnic groups: The Cabanas and the Collaguas. The Cabanas, who live in Cabanoconde and the lower part of the valley are the smaller group and have ancient Quechua roots dating to 1400 BC. They identify their ethnic origin by the hat on their head: The Cabanas use beautifully embroidered felt hats. After Cabanaconde, you will return to the lodge for lunch.

For the rest of your time in Colca you may rest and relax at your Lodge, or if colonial art is of interest to you, visit one of the best preserved colonial churches such as Maca, Coporaque or Lari. Alternatively you can go on a two hour hike to the nearby pre-Inca ruins of Uyo-Uyo, visit the thermal baths at the Colca Lodge, or go horse riding.

Overnight at Las Casitas del Colca

Day 6: Wednesday

You will be collected from your Hotel and driven in a private car to the Airport.

Discovering the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve on the Delfin II: Five Days and Four Nights

picture by Bruno Girin courtesty of flickr CC

Visit one of the Earth’s most precious assets, the Amazon Basin. This area of the planet plays a unique role in its well-being. It covers an area larger than the entire continental United States and contains the largest tropical forest in the world. The Basin harbors nearly one-third of the world’s species and contains nearly one-quarter of the earth’s fresh water.
The statistics are incredible, but nothing compares to seeing the wealth of flora and fauna and meeting the indigenous people of this beautiful part of the world. During this trip you will spend three days exploring the Pacaya Samiria National Reserve, part of the ‘flooded forest’. For nearly six months of the year, waters from the mighty Amazon River and other tributaries rise as much as 40 feet to inundate an area greater in size than the state of Florida. During your five day trip you will have the chance to spot over 132 species of mammal, including 13 primates and over 300 species of birds. The Delfin, a beautiful luxury cabin boat with a polished wood interior, is your home for the next five days.

05:00 pm. Arrive Iquitos
After arriving at Iquitos International Airport, you will be assisted by our guides and transported by bus for about 1½ hours, heading northwest toward Nauta (the oldest city in the department of Loreto). Nauta lies between Iquitos and the Marañon River, where the DELFIN is waiting for you.

07:30 pm. Arrive Nauta and board the DELFIN
Upon arriving at the port of Nauta, you will board the DELFIN, assisted by our experienced crew. They will help you settle into your wood-paneled, comfortable twin-bedded cabin provided with orthopedic mattresses and natural cotton sheets and towels, silent A/C units and private bathrooms with fine wooden furnishings, hot showers and a variety of environmentally friendly amenities for your ultimate indulgence. It will become clear that you are traveling where few have gone before. In fact, you are part of a select group of seasoned world travellers who visit remote Pacaya-Samiria Reserve, five million acres of protected, flooded forest, roughly the size of a small Central American country. A world of flora and fauna awaits you.

08:00 pm. Happy hour
Just before dusk, as the DELFIN starts its journey into the rainforest, our barman and staff will provide you with a wide variety of drinks and cocktails including Peru’s finest and most famous cocktail, the pisco sour, made of Pisco, a Peruvian grape brandy. Fine regional cigars will also be available.

08:30 pm. Dinner
Dinner is served in our cozy dining room located at the back of the ship’s second deck.
Because of its cultural diversity, Peruvian cuisine is considered one of the world’s finest, making the country an attractive culinary destination. Aside from providing you with your first rainforest adventure, the DELFIN is also a unique culinary experience, offering the best of Amazonian-Peruvian cuisine in a cosmopolitan gourmet setting. Our chef prides himself in serving dishes in different styles and seasoned with a wide variety of herbs and spices, as well as exotic fruits.

09:30 pm. Briefing and time to relax
On the top observation deck, our guides will use charts and short videos displayed on our flat LCD screen to conduct a brief orientation, outlining details of your journey, including the places you will visit, the wildlife you will see, as well as a summary of the history and geography of the Amazon basin.
Finally, under the beauty of an Amazonian night filled with hundreds of stars or perhaps a full moon, and wafted by the gentle breeze of the rainforest, our multitalented staff will briefly entertain you with a little live music, while you enjoy an after dinner drink and a fine Amazonian cigar.

Day 7: Thursday

Belluda Caño – Dorado River

06:00 am. Breakfast – Buffet
Dawn and dusk are ideal times for nature observation, and an early rise is therefore highly recommended. On your first morning, coffee will wake us up, and pancakes will be a delicious choice for this new morning of adventure and new surprises.
Belluda Stream exploration: Aboard the skiffs, we will explore this black water stream and start learning about the rainforest. You are now in Pacaya Samiria national reserve, where you will have the chance to see its amazing wildlife. From the skiff you can easily spot parrots, macaws and monkeys, such as the monk Saki monkey with its gray and black body, naked face and long shaggy tail. You might also see the saddle back tamarin monkey, whose high chirping notes can easily be confused with those of a flock of birds. It’s also a good spot to see the beautiful morpho butterfly that flaps lazily along open corridors through forest or along river edges of lowland forest on sunny days. Different species of hawks will also be found and if we are lucky we’ll see the noisy “laughing falcon,” named after its loud falsetto call while sitting solitary in secondary forest and plantations.

11:00 am. Back to the boat
We will continue upstream towards our next destination.

03:30 pm. El Dorado River exploration

We will head for this spectacular spot within the Pacaya-Samiria Reserve In the skiffs, where you will also experience an unforgettable encounter with gray and pink river dolphins. Enjoy a unique opportunity to swim among the dolphins. On the river you will experience abundant wildlife and nature in all its exuberance while we search for the Amazon River’s transitional forest specialties such as snail kites, festive parrots, endangered scarlet macaws, olive spotted hummingbirds, Amazonian parrot lets, wood creepers, among others.
Prehistoric looking iguanas laze in the sun while we travel along the shoreline searching for whatever the jungle has to offer us. Squirrel Monkeys are very active at this time of the day, when they move in large noisy troops at mid- to upper-levels of primary and secondary lowland forest.

06:30 pm. Back to the boat
We will continue sailing towards our next destination while you relax during happy hour and dinner.

For more information visit http://www.aracari.com

See days 1 – 3 of the Peru Itinerary

See days 8 – 11 of the Peru Itinerary

Lima – Arequipa – Colca Valley – Iquitos

Day 1: Friday

Arrival Transfer
Upon the arrival of your international flight in Lima, you will be met by Aracari’s representative, who will escort you to your hotel and assist you at check-in.

Overnight at Casa Andina Private Collection Miraflores

With its stylish contemporary design, cutting-edge technology and ideal location, the flagship Casa Andina Private Collection – Miraflores hotel is the top of its class in every aspect. Once the Miraflores César’s, Lima’s fondly remembered, original five-star hotel, this modern icon was dramatically transformed in 2008 into the capital’s newest luxury hotel. The 17-story hotel, with views over Miraflores and the Pacific coast, offers 148 sophisticated, contemporary luxury rooms and suites, with soundproofing and LCD flat screen TVs in every room. First-class amenities include a heated, covered pool and breezy terrace, gymnasium with the latest exercise equipment, prestigious Joop salon & massage room. http://www.aracari.com/hotels/casa-andina-private-collection-miraflores.html

Day 2: Saturday

Insiders Visit of Colonial Lima and Larco Herrera Museum with Specialist Guide

Spend a full day with one of our specialist guides in the area of Lima that best demonstrates its Spanish colonial roots.

You will first visit the private Larco Herrera Museum. Housed in an elegant, whitewashed mansion with a lovely garden, this museum contains the largest private collection of pre-Columbian pottery in Peru, with several tens of thousands of the finest ceramics from diverse pre-Hispanic cultures. There are a couple of rooms showing an important collection of textiles, gold and silver objects. In a separate room the visitor can find the famous erotic pottery form the Moche culture (500 AD).

Museo Larco Cafe/Restaurant
Skillfully complimenting the traditional with the contemporary in both, cuisine and decor, this charming cafe style restaurant is located in leafy courtyard of Larco Herrera Museum.

Today, the house is in superb condition, exemplifying life in the Viceregal period. Marvel at the series of salons representing décor during the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries. Explore the courtyard and chapel where the walls used to be covered in silver sheets prior to the ‘sacking’ of 1826. This will be followed by a visit to the Colonial area of Lima. Amongst the main sights are the Cathedral, The Convent of San Francisco and its catacombs, and the Main Square with its beautiful baroque style buildings.

Visit to Casa Aliaga
Step back in time as you enter Casa Aliaga, reportedly the oldest home on the Continent and still family-owned after 17 generations. It was first deeded to Jerónimo de Aliaga after he became one of the 13 men who stayed with Francisco Pizarro during his grueling exploration of Peru’s coast in 1527. You will also have a chance to visit the Casona de San Marcos: the seat of the Universidad de San Marcos, the oldest University in the Americas (founded in 1558) and one of the oldest in the world.

Overnight at Casa Andina Private Collection Miraflores

Day 3: Sunday

Departure Transfer

Aracari representative, will pick you up from your hotel and escort you to the airport for your domestic flight to Arequipa. Upon your arrival, you will be driven from the Airport to your Hotel in a private car.

Arequipa: The White City and beyond
Arequipa is Peru’s second most important city and a very pleasant one too. It is also called “the White City” owing to the colour of its building stones: white volcanic stone from the five volcanoes that surround it. Arequipa has several interesting sights, but it is especially one of Arequipa’s most pleasant towns, with a dry and warm climate almost all year round, lovely buildings and plazas.

Your guide will collect you and you will start with an overview of the highlights of Arequipa: the Main Square, the neighbouring streets and lookout points to appreciate the views of the volcanoes. You will visit the interior of the Jesuit Church of La Compania, a unique example of American baroque architecture, with a wonderfully intricate façade with local motifs, and a superb polychrome chapel cupula. You will also visit the Casa del Moral, a good example of secular colonial architecture, built in 1730. Visit the Convent of Santa Catalina, the city’s highlight, commonly known as the ‘pride’ of Arequipa and arguably the key highlight of Arequipa. This 29,426 square meter convent was founded in 1580 and is a masterpiece of Colonial architectural design.

A visit to the “Museo Santuarios Andinos” where frozen Inca mummies from pre-Columbian times are kept is also included. Your guide will facilitate your visit and interpret the city for you. Arequipa offers good shopping of Alpaca garments and has other interesting convents and colonial houses to visit.

Overnight at Casa Andina Private Collection Arequipa

The Casa Andina Private Collection in Arequipa is a recently inaugurated 5-star hotel in Arequipa, housed in the premises of what was the Royal Mint or “Casa de la Moneda” in Colonial times. Located 3 blocks from the Plaza de Armas, the Hotel has 41 rooms, including a presidential suite, two colonial patios, internet access, central heating and a gourmet restaurant. http://www.aracari.com/hotels/casa-andina-private-collection-arequipa.html

For more information visit http://www.aracari.com/

See days 4 – 7 of the Peru Itinerary

See days 8 – 11 of the Peru Itinerary

Wanderlust – and a natural curiosity for finding beauty in the unexpected – leads me to many places. So, on a recent trip to Salta, in the North West of Argentina where the sun rises and sets daily on the most spectacular scenery, from majestic mountains to dramatic deserts, I set about my search for any surprises the region had to offer.

Reason would have directed me towards Purmamarca, Tilcara and Humahuaca in the North – all magnificent places to see – but instead I decided to head off down south. On the road towards Cafayate and the lush vineyards south of the desert region, just 30 minutes out of the city, I stumbled upon a sign for a tiny village called Chicoana. Cute little name I thought, with the description ‘a little piece of heaven,’ it was 2 km off the beaten track, nestled between the mountains and as traditional a place as you could ever find.

A straight stretch of road leads you to the village square, lined with Tipa trees and tethered Criollo horses – pure gaucho country. Something magic seemed to be awaiting us. While seeking directions for local estancias I unexpectedly stumbled upon a gem of a hotel. The owner Tony was helping us with directions and then casually invited us to visit – a nice idea that turned quickly into a fabulous surprise. Situated in a small square park, full of centennial trees, he and his wife Roxana had crafted the ultimate hide away.

Everything about this hotel brimmed with understated luxury, from the quality furnishings and spotless linen bed linens, to the eye-popping colours (inspired by flowers in the garden) and play of natural light that all demonstrated the owners’ inherent flair for design. It was such a pleasure to see a place paying attention to the smallest detail and actually getting it right, lifting it beyond the ordinary and into the slightly magical only the best hotels can reach.

The hotel consists of six individual suites all arranged around a beautiful main garden with wildflower patches, terraces, lush lawns and an inviting swimming pool. All the rooms have king-sized beds, air conditioning and private bathrooms which come with a heavenly whirlpool. You can also have a number of spa treatments in the hotel’s extremely pretty spa.

Breakfast was a scrumptious gourmet feast, lovingly prepared by our hosts and presented like a tray studded with jewels: a thimble of juice here, a shot of yogurt there, homemade bread, a mouth watering fruit salad, broccoli and potato mash, scrambled eggs…And to top it all off, they are in the process of adding a small restaurant so guests can make the most of their brilliant culinary talents. If you ever get a chance to visit I promise you one thing: in terms of pleasure this is as it as good as it gets.

Bo Hotel de Encanto, +54 387 490 7068; www.bo-chicoana.com.ar

By Nathalie Koerfer

CITY

• “If Frédéric Chopin were to return to Warsaw on his 200th birthday next week he might think he recognised the place. The old medieval city and the mansions along ul Krakowskie Przedmiescie look remarkably like they did when Chopin was born on 22 February 1810, and when he left this gracious city for ever 20 years later,” writes Adrian Mourby in The Independent who gives us a glimpse of the remarkable architecture of Poland’s capital. Warsaw looks just as it did in Chopin’s day. Well, almost.
• “In other cities, the meeting of light and stone is often an unhappy one. The warm rays and the cold surface seem to repel one another – a cosmic battle between radiance and matter. Rome’s stone is defined by light – the contrast of shadow and bright spots is what gives the city’s ruins that ethereal, immortal quality.” In The FT, Francesco Guerrera is reminded of The magical quality of Rome.
• In The Times Peter Hughes recommends Dresden for the weekend. “With extraordinary art collections, remarkable architecture, a mighty musical tradition – and two fine orchestras to perpetuate it — as well as a fleet of antique paddle steamers plying the Elbe, Dresden has to be one of the most rewarding short-break destinations in Europe.
• “No wonder Vancouver is often heralded as one of the world’s most livable cities. It is blessed with a snowcapped mountain backdrop and crystal blue harbors. It is also a gateway to the Inside Passage — the marvelous maze of glacier-carved fjords and forested islands that are a cruise lover’s delight,” writes Denny Lee in The New York Times. “But what really sets Vancouver apart is its urban density. With sprawl kept in check by geography, the city thinks vertically. Neighborhoods overlap, apartments rise. That seems to heighten the city’s international mix, and not just when the Olympic Games are in town.” Lee gives you the highlights of 36 Hours in Vancouver, British Columbia.
• In The Independent Harriet O’Brien gives us the guide to 48 Hours In: Rome. “Right now Italy’s capital is looking at its romantic best, bathed in the haunting light of late winter. Share a cone of hot roasted chestnuts from street stalls by the Trevi Fountain and enjoy Rome without the crowds. For a more earnest reason for a visit, next weekend a major Caravaggio exhibition starts at the Scuderie del Quirinale”

ESCAPE

• The Observer features John Humphrys’s top Peloponnese places. “Before I bought my house in the Peloponnese, my son Christopher and I walked extensively in the area. Late winter or early spring is the best time to go, before it gets too hot and the heat haze obscures the view – you can see forever at that time of year. It’s an unspoilt region in the best sense of the word, with the kind of wild flower meadows we’ve lost in this country. The scenery of the Lousios Gorge is the most staggering I’ve encountered: monasteries hanging from the cliffs as if suspended. It’s the most extraordinary sight.”
• Is This How Cleopatra Felt? asks Jennifer Conlin in The New York Times. Conlin qualifies the madness of booking a private Nile cruise for 80 people. “Strolling onto the roof deck of the Sun Boat IV, a 40-cabin river vessel, as it churned slowly up the Nile in early January, I relished the scene before me. Lounging on white chaises and overstuffed couches, swimming in the heated pool, reading and sipping drinks were dozens of people from various parts of my life.”
• In The Telegraph Robin Gauldie dismisses claims that Greece has become an expensive destination. “The Greek tradition of open-handed giving to strangers is still alive and kicking. When I first started walking over the cobbled mule paths of Samos, a lush, hilly island, some 30 years ago, I was touched by the kindness of farmers and villagers who would press small gifts of food or drink on me – a handful of almonds, some figs, a bowl of fresh sheep’s milk, a slice of watermelon, whatever was in season. Walking the same trails with Ramblers Holidays in October, I found this spirit – which the Greeks call philoxenia – lives on.” This is Greece: an insider’s holiday guide.

OUTDOOR/ADVENTURE

• Joanna Walters, in The Times, takes A walk on the wild side in Florida, on a tour (known as “Never safe, always fun”) of the Everglades National Park. “A million people visit this area every year, usually by airboat, which roars across the marsh like a tiny hovercraft. But I wanted to try a quieter, greener way to get close to nature.”
• Laura Burgess and friend indulge in Cycling for softies, with satnav and silk sheets for The Observer. Cycling from Highland Perthshire to the Trossachs National Park via four star hotels and accompanied by some useful technology, Burgess discovers that “The combination of quiet roads and comfortable accommodation was a winner. I secretly enjoyed the climbs and the excuse they gave me to eat fine food in the evenings.”
• “Road trips are a relatively new concept in Turkey and yet this country is made for driving: vast sweeping landscapes, pine-clad mountains and lush agricultural plains, with ramshackle villages punctuated by minarets and cypress trees. Sadly, a road system that belongs in the 19th century and the Turkish proclivity to see driving as a white-knuckle sport have tended to put visitors off the self-drive option.” Nevertheless The Guardian’s Annabelle Thorpe goes Driving into the heart of the Turkish countryside.

COME DANCING

• In The Telegraph Lucy Davies is in Vienna: learning to waltz at a Viennese ball – a lady’s guide. “Vienna is intoxicating, other-worldly, more romantic than Paris, I dare to suggest…Late one evening, in a dreamy haze, we began seeing figures looming from the dark in cloaks and gowns, fresh from a ball and looking for all the world like visitors from another age. Mozart, Strauss, Marie Antoinette – none of these former inhabitants of the city would have blinked.” Two years later, as a wonderfully romantic gesture from her partner, “I found myself back in Vienna – to attend the Coffeehouse Owners’ Ball.”
• Natalie Paris recommends Five of the best dancing holidays in The Telegraph. From tango in Buenos Aires to flamenco in Spain to merengue in the Dominican Republic, here are five ways to combine cool dance moves and hot destinations.
• In The New York Times Sarah J. Wachter discovers that Forró Raises Pulse of Parisians. “Paris is gripped by folie de forró…a rustic country dance from northeastern Brazil that has fired the romantic imaginations of Parisians young and old, at a weekly gathering devoted to the dance.”

THE OVERLOOKED

• “The strangest of all the very strange things about the strangest place on earth, North Korea, is that it’s surprisingly easy to go there. Or at least, not as hard as it somehow ought to be. I’d always thought that it was only marginally less difficult than going to the moon or, say, Eton, but my amazing revelation is this: type “North Korea” and “tourism” into Google, and you’ll find Koryo Tours, a British-run, Beijing-based travel firm.” In The Observer, Carole Cadwalladr is Inside North Korea: the ultimate package tour. “barely 1,500 people a year visit North Korea. Or, to put this in context, several thousand fewer than make it to the British Lawnmower Museum.”
• In The Independent Cathy Packe is on the Trail of the unexpected: Pachacamac. “The temporary closure of Peru’s greatest wonder will mar many an itinerary.” With Machu Picchu still cut off Packe visits the lesser known “sacred city dedicated to Pachacamac…Until the buildings of the modern capital began to encroach, this was a remote, inaccessible place; for the modern visitor, it is the cliff-top location, overlooking the ocean, that impresses.”
• “Through the accidents of history in which this city specialises, the forgotten “Prenzlberg” has become Berlin’s prettiest neighbourhood,” writes Simon Kuper in The FT. “I had barely visited Prenzlauer Berg since 1991, and walking around it with Ulrich recently, nothing looked familiar. The facades, cleansed of brown coal dust, are suddenly luminous. The centrepiece of the neighbourhood, the Kollwitzplatz, is now surely Berlin’s best square.” The Prenzlauer Berg transformed.

CITY

• For The Independent’s Michael Bywater “Fez is the opposite of Brussels” and all the better for it. As he describes the sights and sounds (you’ll find Al-Karaouine, the world’s oldest functioning university, and the notorious Chouara Tannery) Bywater urges you to lose yourself in the city – “the alleyways of the medina are so sinuous, straitened and overbuilt that there is, quite literally, no view. You never know what is around the next corner as it tilts down towards the river.” Best for getting lost: Fez
• “It’s ridiculous really. The British will visit Romania, Austria, Italy, even the Balkans. But they won’t go to Munich. They can’t pretend it is because there are no beaches – they go to Switzerland.” Alice Thompson at The Times finds that despite its relative unpopularity, she can’t help Falling in love with Munich as she discovers the city’s easy charm, Michelin-starred restaurants and nearby fairytale castles.
• The New York Times’ Jennifer Conlin spends 36 Hours in Istanbul , exploring what 2010’s European City of Culture can offer. According to her “the city is showcasing local artists in both historic areas and new museums – yet another example of how Istanbul is among the world’s most visually stimulating cities.” Recommendations range from a stroll down Istiklal Caddesi (a main thoroughfare) to a Mediterranean-Scandinavian restaurant and a music lounge housed in a former bakery.
• New inhabitant of Venice, John Brunton discovers The Venetian islands locals want to keep to themselves in the weekend’s Guardian, savouring the tourist-free zones of nearby towns – “all you do is buy an all-day public transport ticket then set off on an adventure that takes you from the steps of the Doge’s Palace, across the lagoon to the Lido, and then to the sleepy fishermen’s island of Pellestrina, that traverses the wild wetlands of the littoral, with the beaches and nature reserves of the Adriatic on one side, the calm waters of the lagoon on the other. The final leg, on the water bus, delivers you to the ancient port of Chioggia, a charming mini-Venice minus the crowds.”
• Edwin Heathcote, the FT’s architecture critic takes a tour of the town in the grip of a renaissance – Art Basel’s rising popularity has helped to forge Miami’s reinvention as a design capital: “The latest boom, though, has ended without a conspicuous legacy beyond the endless, bland apartment blocks and second homes. If there is something left over it is the reinvention of some of the city’s less palm-lined streets as design and arts districts. And the stage-set architecture of the city is proving a compelling backdrop to its reinvention as a design capital.”

ESCAPE

• Holly Finn writes about The ancient landscape of the Grand Canyon in the FT. “No faith is shaken when we’re told the oldest rock in the canyon, the Vishnu Schist at the bottom, is two billion years old. And yet, holy moly, this feels like a religious place. Looking into that fearsome 277-mile-long crack in the planet, you want to laugh, clap, sing. Then you want to stand very still and say nothing. You’d have to be wicked to leave here unmoved.”
• Best for sun-worshippers: Bondi Beach says Janet Street-Porter. Writing in the Independent, Street-Porter sings its praises describing it as “the most vibrant beach in Australia; perfect for a fun weekend break from the city. The combination of a beautiful bay, golden sands and a cosmopolitan crowd ensures that this is a beach for everyone”
• Looking for an escape? Well according to the Independent, Cyprus is your best bet. Jocasta Jones explains why – “we finally ventured west to view the ancient ruins and mosaics of Pafos, south to watch the ships pass by the bustling port town of Limassol, north to the fascinating walled city of Nicosia, the world’s last partitioned capital. We drove up into the hills to nibble on stickily preserved fruits in the enchanting village of Kakopetria, where shady squares brought welcome respite from the summer heat.” Best for island escapes: Cyprus
• The Times’ Daniel Finkelstein takes a family trip to Provence and attempts to learn the art of Golf and the flying trapeze at Club Med – “I was able to get out on the golf course. I write that as if it’s something I do routinely. In fact I’ve never been before. My golf handicap is that I can’t hit the ball. I wanted to go out and have a go, though, because the course looked so fantastic and also because I wanted to stand in the middle of the putting green and ring my broker on my mobile phone and tell him to sell my Harrods’ shares. I don’t have any Harrods’ shares, but you get what I mean.”

ADVENTURE/OUTDOORS

• Robert Adams goes on a 6 month adventure around Africa with two families (that’s five children) in tow, visiting some of the wildest parts of Africa – “North of Addis Ababa we took a hard, dusty mountain road to the ancient holy city of Lalibela and marvelled at the monolithic cave churches hewn from bare rock. The boys were captivated by the medieval world around us, the priests with their ornate gold crosses, the tunnels linking the churches, and the macabre sight of human bones sticking out of coffins and carved niches in the rock face.” This is Cape Town to Cairo – and back again
• In The Telegraph Lydia Bell gets away from the urbane pace of Cuba’s cities in search of a more relaxed way of life. Passing through the towns of Cienfuegos and Trinidad “an exquisitely preserved museum piece of cobblestone streets and sumptuous squares” Bell and her husband sit back and soak up the simple charms of these small towns – “On our way home we stop in Plaza Ignacio Agramonte and join the locals on the marble benches. We stay there until the sun fades then walk back through silent streets.” Cuba: Journey to the provincial heart
• In Iceland: Go with the floe Chris Heath from The Telegraph takes an 830 mile trip around the country, stopping for the many curiosities along the way – hot springs full of ‘uncommon’ bacteria, lava formations, waterfalls, glaciers. Culture comes in the form of a poetry reading, whale museum (which is also an indoor golf course) and erm, a penis museum – “Once you’ve been in Iceland for a while it barely seems surprising, let alone remarkable, that in a small fishing town on the northern coast a man would open what he calls the Phallalogical Mus eum, dedicated to the display of the world’s most extensive collection of mammalian penises” – but it’s the beauty of the island which most enthralls Heath.
• The Independent’s Maria Arnold, heads to a beginner-friendly ski resort in Sainte Foy as she heads to the slopes with her children on for their first time skiing: “Two great nursery slopes with magic carpets (gone are the jerky button lifts of yesteryear) got our young children off to a great start, and they quickly graduated to greens and blues. For them, the great highlight was the “Fox Run”, a narrow track through the woods with a big bump every few yards – producing squeals of delight as they came bobbing down, emerging from the trees with huge grins across their faces” Best for reluctant downhillers: Sainte Foy
• “Either everyone needed cheering up or it was national “make fun of a limey” day. Michael Jackson was on the sound system, encouraging us not to stop till we got enough. The women high-kicked, while I just looked like an arthritic old labrador on a one-way trip to the vet. I moved right as they moved left, and I shimmied when I should have sashayed.” The Times’ Will Hide finds himself enjoying the ball game, despite having to go Cheerleading with the Miami Dolphins in Southern Florida.

WILDLIFE/NATURE

• The Telegraph’s Jessamy Calkin takes his son Jonah Whale watching in South Africa, staying near the town of Hermanus, marvelling at the grace of these great creatures – “at one point she turned on to her side and Jonah and I, leaning over the side of the boat, found ourselves looking directly into her eye. I thought of Paul Watson, the eco militant…and the beginning of his fight to save the whales: ‘As the whale slid back into the water we saw his eye, which was the size of a dinner plate, and in that whale’s eye I saw recognition, compassion, empathy and understanding. Something passed between us and it changed my life for ever.’
• “When you are an old man, remember this moment,” I said to my companion, a six-year-old relative called Elliot. “Why?” said Elliot, licking his ice lolly. “Because when you are an old man the snow leopard will not exist.” – Nigel Richardson goes to mountains of Ladakh: Chasing the snow leopard, a creature which, partly due to its endangered status proves to be tantalisingly elusive.
• Sean O’Grady gets an animal education in Best for the wild at heart: South Africa, the Independent’s top tip for safari holidays: “I now know why leopards take their kills up a tree (so dinner isn’t stolen by hyenas), how to distinguish hippo and rhino tracks (hippo drag their feet) and how to age a lion (the darker the mane, the older it is).”
• In the New York Times Tara Mulholland enjoys a trip Into the Wild in Lush Guyana exploring the wildlife and off-the-beaten track isolation, although, she warns, it’s not for everybody – “At the Karanambu ranch, we ran into two Frankfurt-based couples, who, upon finding that Guyana did not provide the on-tap wildlife, chilled wines and lizard-free log cabins that, say, a chic safari trip might, had chartered a private plane to take them back to Georgetown.”

HISTORY

• Tom Chesshyre visits Mandela’s prison island, 20 years on, led by tour guides who are former inmates of the prison: “Tours to Robben Island take about four hours – 45 minutes each way on the ferry, with a walk through the prison compound and a drive around the island on buses bearing the slogan: “The journey’s never long when freedom’s the destination.”"
• In the FT, Andrew Mueller visits monuments linked to the Civil Rights movement in Montgomery, Alabama, in homage to the Ghosts of Alabama’s civil rights struggle and the Montgomery bus boycott – “A museum named after Parks, a few blocks from the King church, recalls the boycott in detail. It’s a heartening illustration of what can be accomplished by determined and reasonable people. Like all of Montgomery’s civil rights heritage, it’s worth travelling a long way to see.”